| Dusko [23. 11. 2007.] |
Pozdrav svima, kako se spremam do Graz-a u nedjelju na kramu s nakanom da ubodem neki medium format, moze se reci da sam se napalio na hass-a, tražim savjet kako da ne budem preveslan ili bar što manje preveslan. Frend me uputio na to da recimo ponesem film sa sobom pa provjerim da li film winder dobro radi tj. da nema preklapanja fotki tako da označim na negativu početnu oznaku, namotam film i vidim da li namotavanje ide ok tj. da li se ta zacrtana oznaka pomaknula onoliko koliko je bilo očekivano. Ima li još netko neki koristan savjet? Hvala! Duško |
| janimir [23. 11. 2007.] |
hm, nije mu bas neki savjet… kak ste to prematanje vas dva mislili kontrolirat? nakon svakog prematanja vadit spulicu s filmom i gledat kolko se pomaknulo? mozda se moze, al ne vjerujem da je bas precizno i prakticno... inace, s kupovinom srednjeg formata je malo skakljivo - u svakom slucaju bi bilo dobro filmom provjerit njegov rad, no film bi trebalo razvit… u nedjelju? srednji format? na sajmu? nemoguce, bojim se. stoga, mislim da ti ostaje opcija povjerenja i razmjene podataka… probat dogovorit povrat ili refundaciju ukoliko se pokaze danesto ne stima. ne vjerujem odvise ni u tu soluciju. jedina moguca mi se cini da ulovis nekog iskusnog za pomoc i drzis si fige. ja ti bum drzal, hazo je krasan aparat! :) |
| Zoopolis [24. 11. 2007.] |
Bavim se istom mišlju kupiti isto na istome mjestu. Nažalost, nemam linkove na stranice pa moram ovakHow To Buy A Hasselblad by Lance Karp - Mr500CM HASSELBLAD 500CM 6x6 SLR MF CAMERA Photo Courtesy of Donald Gilbert Cope II Stelrxr Metalworks - Athens, GA - 706.548.9349 bscoffee@athens.net Related Links: Hasselblad 500C/EL New Users Guide (by Lance Karp, Mr500cm) Hasselblad Lenses Hasselblads on a Budget Testing Cameras and Lenses This article is written to help you purchase a camera, lens and magazine. Since so many photographers are looking to step up to the Hasselblad system, my goal is to make you more familiar with the camera. Here are things to look for and points to check. If done properly, you can save yourself a lot of headaches. The body: The main bodies are the 500C and 500CM (even though this is not a how to use article, the same applies for the 501 and 503 series) and there are a lot of them out there. First examine the body without the lens or magazine on. Now, the main difference between the 500C and 500CM is with the 500CM "you" can change the focussing screen. Now there are a few 500C's that are actually CM's. To check, remove the waist level finder and look at the screen. If you see four screws, one in each corner of the screen, you have a "C". If you see two tiny levers, one on the right and the other on the left, you can change the screen. Most photographers use one screen, so if your buying a 500C and you don't like the screen that's installed, any good repairman can change it. The screen should be clean without any major marks. Cleaning marks are common only when somebody tries to clean it and does not know what they are doing. Check for dents, dings and brassing on the back rails. Brassing on the back rails where the magazine meets the body is common, nicks and rough edges show hard use. Next check the rear shutter. Press the shutter release and watch the shutter open and close. Do this several times. It should open fully and crisply, then return to its fully closed position. If the rear shutter seems mushy or sluggish, chances are it needs some work. Lack of use causes this, followed by age. This is not a bad thing, or it is if you are paying top dollar. This problem can be easily repaired. Next check the mirror. It should be clean and free of marks. Slight marks on the bottom edge are common only when the foam in the body dries out. Another sign of age and lack of maintenance are slight dry squeaks when you advance the camera. 500C bodies are a really good value, and many are still in use. Don't count them out, many pros still use them as main or backup bodies. If you are on a budget then go with the 500C and save a few $$$'s. If the body you are buying has any problems then be sure to take the price of the service off the price of the camera. A camera serviced by a good repairman will last a long time. EL/ELM bodies: These bodies are basically overgrown 500 cameras with motor drives. You check them the same way as you would a 500 camera but be sure to listen to the motor for squeaks, squeals and other noises. It should run smooth and crisp. Run the camera for a while. The camera should not blow fuses. A camera that blows fuses needs to be checked out by a repairman. Be sure to check the batteries. The biggest problem with the ni-cad batteries is over-charging them. After a while, they begin to swell and loose capacity. There was a problem with battery supply, but not anymore. The batteries are not cheap, that's why the new generation uses AA batteries. EL's are at an all time low in price and make great remote and tripod cameras. A good body with a battery and charger will be in the mid $400.00 area. Lenses: Checking a "C" or "CF" lens is the same. First check the overall appearance of the lens. Scuff marks on the barrel means that the lens was used. Dings and dents mean that it might have seen some rough times. Next check the glass for scratches. Light cleaning marks are common on Zeiss optics due to their soft coating. They look like hairs and generally do not have any effect on the performance of the lens. Next check for nicks and scratches. I would beware of any scratches on the rear elements, since they usually have an effect on the lenses performance. Unless it's a tiny nick at the edge of the glass, shoot a roll of film and then examine them with a good loupe. Next, look through the lens, look carefully and look at an angle. The optics should be clear, no hazing. Two things to look for especially in older lenses are fungus and separation. First fungus. Fungus looks almost like a tiny spider's web inside the lens with a slight haze. Fungus in its early stages can be cleaned without hurting the glass, and future images will be fine. After a while, fungus will etch itself into the glass making a $2000.00 lens useless. Separation looks almost like a water drop in between the glass. It usually starts at the edge and spreads. A lens with minor separation is still useful but will require major optical work in the future. Again, this is not cheap so think about that when buying a lens with separation. Next check the shutter (this must be done on the body). The shutter should be crisp and low speeds should not drag. The aperture blades should snap into position. If they drag or the shutter seems sluggish, it's time for a cleaning. An often over looked item is the PC outlet. Be sure to check for flash synch. Flash contacts wear out and need to be replaced. Next check the focussing ring, make sure in moves freely and evenly. They sometimes get stiff and need to be cleaned and re-greased. I'm not going to get into which lens should I buy a "C" or "CF". Do your homework and you'll know which is right for you. I will say this, I've seen mint "C" lenses that were dead when I put them on a camera. These lenses were seldom used. Age and lack of use took its toll. With a good cleaning they can be back in service, but be sure to remember that services costs $$$'s. The shutters in both lenses are as good as they come. They can be rebuilt and function like new. In all my years, I only knew one guy who needed a new shutter, and his lens fell in the ocean! There are plenty of good deals out there, take some time and make sure you are not buying somebody's headache. Magazines: First check to make sure the insert and shell both have the same serial number. They are matched at the factory. Sometimes they get mismatched, and it lowers the value. Next run the back on the body and advance the counter till the end. Now remove the insert from the shell and watch the counter reset. It should be swift. If the counter sticks or is sluggish service is needed. Now remove the dark slide from the body and check for light leaks. Light traps wear out with use and age and need to be replaced. If you see light coming through the area where the dark slide goes into, then the light trap needs replacing. Whenever possible run a roll of film through the magazine. By doing this, it allows you to check for light leaks and spacing problems. Over-lapping is a common problem. Again, these problems can all be corrected. The myth is that professionals beat their cameras to death. We do use our cameras, but since we make our livings with them, so we keep them in top shape. When buying a camera, if you spot a problem, let the seller know and work out a price reduction. Cosmetics blemishes do not effect the performance of a camera, only its value. I would buy a lens that has scuff marks on the barrel as long as the optics were clean. Dents are another story. I would want to make sure that the lens was still aligned. I will say this, I've seen a lens that was dropped and dented, sent to the factory to be checked out, only to be told everything's fine! Hasselblad's are tanks. As long as they are serviced every few years, they'll last a lifetime. Look at what you are buying and know what you are getting into. If you have any questions, you can e-mail me and I'll help you if I can Lance Karp Mr500CM@pipeline.com Received: Sat, 26 Sep 1998 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------End of Page-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- o : |
| Zoopolis [24. 11. 2007.] |
Svakako posjetiti stranice Karen Nakamura u Hassebladina, tamo su sve informacije, kako čitati i što znače serijski brojevi, usporedbe s drugim srednjim formatima, kako kupiti, koja leđa i zašto itd. Sretno!! |
| Zoopolis [25. 11. 2007.] |
Dusko, ako si isao u Gratz, bi li sa nama posjelio preliminrane rezultate, iskustva, koju priču, ili što već? |
| Dusko [27. 11. 2007.] |
Evo da napisem kak je bilo. Nisam našao ništa što sam tražio, a to su polarizator, hass 503cw, nikon FM3a :( jedan jedini FM3a mi je doslovno pred nosom otišao, da sam ga upazio cca. 10 sekundi ranije bil bi moj :( Sajam je bio iste ako ne i malo manje veličine od našeg. Nije bilo firmi sa novom opremom već samo rabljena roba. Jedino je taj organizator imao štand sa hrpom opreme dok su ostali bili tak, li la. Bilo bi dobro da on dodđe na idući sajam u zg jer stvarno ima hrpu opreme na prodaju. Mjesto sajma se relativno lako nađe, upad je 3.50 EUR što je za taj sajam previše jer naprosto ne nudi tak puno, nema prezentacija nekih novih fotića ili slično što bi bilo privlačno. Uglavnom moj dojam je da ću pohoditi ovaj zagrebački svake godine ali van nebum išao, bar sumnjam za sada, a sve kaj me zanima ću probati naći na ebay-u ili na tak neki način. Ako ima netko još nekih pitanja tu sam :) |
| Dusko [27. 11. 2007.] |
p.s. puuuuuuno hvala svima na tekstovima na što i kako kod hassa paziti! Vrlo poučno :) |
| Zoopolis [28. 11. 2007.] |
hm, pisao sam nešto već ovdje " Ćeretanje o oštrini") i drago mi je da okolo kruže istomišljenici :) Naime isto sam ganjao pored hassiea i FM3A.... obzirom da se radi o polovnoj robi moj je zaključak da je najpametnije ( i skuplje) kupovati kod ovlaštenih reparatora/distributera, od Adorame preko KEH a. |
| KreSica [28. 11. 2007.] |
Hm, ne određuju li stakla oštrinu? A i hazo i fm3 se daju dobro servisirati, nije baš da ih je napravljeno 100 komada. Kajjaznam, to igranje sa filmom ima svoje romantike, i pije vodu ak se igraš cb i sam razvijaš, al nedo ti bog da hoćeš pucat color i još k tome dijače, skeniranje još kak tak, al razvijanje? Koma. Bar su takva moja iskustva. Moja zadnja brija je da nataknem objektive sa Norite na mog pentaxa, al moram napravit neki konverter za to. Ono kaj sam probal onak manualno je izgledalo dobro. Hoću reć, ne bi li bilo jednostavnije razmišljat o pravim staklima na nekom trenutno dostupnom senzoru. ;) |
| chinggis [28. 11. 2007.] |
eh, mene zanima kada će opet biti fotokrama u zg? ima li to negdje objavljeno ili je to tradicionalno svake 1 subote u mjesecu? ja sam se zapalio na srednjeformatni aparat pa bi jednoga kupio da se igram (kada djete ima puno novaca, radi pi.. :) ), izbor mi nije nešto velik jer bi morao biti jeftin, dobar, s kvalitetnim i jeftinim staklima.. ima još toga ali da ne pretjerujem :) zadovoljit će me i informacija o fotokrami :) |
| Zoopolis [28. 11. 2007.] |
Je Krešice imaš pravo, moj je zaključak bio na onoj drugospomenutoj raspri da je 35 mm film stvarno dubioza, sada kada full frame senzor nije više tako skup. C/b fotka ima svoju draž i mislim da tude još ima mjesta zadovoljstvu i kreativnosti i stvarnog odmaka od digitalije. Od kolor filma sam odustao ( ima neko čudno razlijevanje boja, tragovi poput tračnica tj željezničkih pragova- stare kemikalije?, halloi, mada moram priznati jedan film koji su razvili kak se oće a sniman je po oblačnomu vremenu je stvarno fajn). Dijafilm ima više mana , one koje je Krešica nabrojao i malko je tahnički zahtjevan za slikanje. Imam par roli koje ću krosprocesnut... srednjega formata pa što bude, tak da ih potrošim. hasselblad bi me prvenstveno zanimao zbog svoje crno bijele oštrine i studijskih snimki, i to je to dok ga ne probam neću imati mira. Al mi se ne žuri. Uostalom poraspravi o Hasselbladu H3 očito da ću biti veći frajer ak bilo što što se zove hassie budem imao u garaži :) Na kraju, ostaje se pitati čemu sve ovo, zadnji puta sam fotkao na godišnjem, i to jedno dva filma, s digitalijom ni tada ništa. moj zaključak je da je film jednom nogom u grobu, al ću ga ja upotrebljavati sve dok ga ne pokopaju ( i o pro et contra sam se nadrobio pol fotografskog života pa sad ne bih o tome nanovo). |
| Zoopolis [28. 11. 2007.] |
A, chiggis, pisali smo u isto vrijeme... o fotokrami ne znam puno osim da je više krama nego foto, ogotovo ako si se napaio na srednji format. U srednjem formatu za male novce haraju bivši istočnjaci, kod nas je najviše na cijeni Pentakon six. Srednja klasa bila bi Yashica 124, top stanje je oko 1000 kuna. Više klasa hasselbaldi, Rolleiflexi mislim da se i nešto Pentaxa vucaralo po oglasima, sve koje sma vidio ili su beznadežno skupi ili bezbadežno ofucani. No malo strpljenja, daj koji glas, njuši i dobiti češ nešto dobro jer ipak film je jednom nogom u grobu :) |
| chinggis [28. 11. 2007.] |
film je jednom nogom u grobu, isto kao i ja :))) već odavno više nisam mlad i s filmom ću se igrati dok ga bude bilo, prvenstveno mislim na cb film. da, za početak bi kupio nekog istočnjaka, koliko sam vidio imaju dosta dobre objektive koji ne koštaju puno a za moj novčanik jako jako popularna ideja :) ipak se sve vrti oko novaca. a hassa ne bi nikada kupio, da je hass nešto, ne bi ga austronauti ostavili svemircima na mjesecu. pa onda se postavlja pitanje što li su uopće snimili s njim gore kada se više ne može do te nasa-ine arhive :))) možda su snimili fotografije poznate po nazivu crnac u tunelu :)))) a za to nisu morali ići na mjesec :))) |
